Burberry

A ladies' Burberry handbag in the company's trademarked check pattern

Burberry is a UK-based outfitter, manufacturing clothing and other apparel. Its distinctive check pattern has become one of its most widely copied trademarks. The company has branded stores and franchises around the world, and also sells through concessions in third party stores. It also runs a catalogue business and has a fragrance line. Both HM Queen Elizabeth and HRH The Prince of Wales have granted the company Royal Warrants. Today, Burberry's trademark products are its fashionable handbags and exclusive fragrances. The current Design Director is Christopher Bailey.

Burberry was founded in 1856 when 21-year-old Thomas Burberry, a former draper's apprentice, opened his own store in Basingstoke, Hampshire. By 1870, the business had established itself by focusing on the development of outdoors attire. In 1880, Thomas Burberry invented gabardine, a hardwearing, water-resistant, yet breathable fabric, in which the yarn is waterproofed before weaving. A patent was taken out for this in 1888.

In 1891, Thomas Burberry opened an emporium in the Haymarket, London, which still stands today and now contains the company's headquarters. Ten years later, the company was commissioned by the War Office to design a new service uniform for British officers. In 1904, the Burberry Equestrian Knight Logo was developed and registered as a trademark. They also became the outfitters for Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole, and Ernest Shackleton, who lead a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica.

When World War I broke out in Europe, Burberry invented the trenchcoat by modifying its military designs to suit the conditions of British contemporary warfare. After the war, the trenchcoat became popular with civilians. Over the years, it has been popularized by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, Peter Sellers in the Pink Panther films, and Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's. Burberry also specially designed aviation garments. A. E. Clouston and Mrs Betsy Kirby Green made the fastest flying time to Cape Town from London in 1937 and were sponsored by Burberry.

The Burberry Check

The trademarked Burberry check pattern.

The red, white, black, and peach check, known as the 'Nova,' was first used as a lining for their trenchcoat in 1924. It wasn't until as late as 1967 that the Burberry Check, now a registered trademark, was widely used on its own for items including umbrellas, scarves and luggage.

 UK image problems and revitalisation

During the 1970s, the brand became popular with the British football casual cult, leading to it to being associated with chavs, hooligans and members of football firms by the 1990s. The brand became something of a national joke, particularly when actress Danniella Westbrook was photographed with her young daughter wearing matching Burberry outfits.

With the entry of a New Yorker, Rose Marie Bravo, as Chief Executive Officer in 1997, it was hoped the brand would be revitalised. She brought in Kate Moss to star in an advertising campaign, along with many new designs and products. The Burberry check baseball cap, a favourite of chavs, was discontinued by the company in 2004 to distance Burberry from the group. However, the company still blamed weak Christmas 2004 sales in the UK on its chav image.

 Closure of Treorchy factory

In September 2006 Burberry announced the closure in March 2007 of their factory in Treorchy, South Wales, moving 310 jobs to China. The firm states that the Treorchy plant is "not commercially viable" despite announcing a 22% increase in profits in January 2007. The extremely unpopular decision has resulted in protests by workers outside the Burberry flagship stores in London, under the banner "Keep Burberry British". The campaign, led by local Welsh Assembly Member Leighton Andrews, has attracted international press coverage and is supported by celebrities from the world of cinema, music and sport including: Prince Charles, Tom Jones, Sir Alex Ferguson, Ioan Gruffudd (the international face of Burberry), Emma Thompson, Rhys Ifans, Bryn Terfel, The Automatic, Tanni Grey-Thompson, Irvine Welsh and Steve Jones (presenter). The PR disaster reached a new stage when local MP Chris Bryant made a motion in Parliament to remove Burberry's Royal Warrant if it persists in its intention to move these jobs offshore.

Corporate history

Burberry was an independent company until 1955, when it was bought by Great Universal Stores (GUS), owners of UK High street retailers Argos and Homebase. Beginning in 2000, there were rumours of GUS releasing Burberry as an independent company. But it was not until December, 2005, when Burberry was spun-off as the Burberry Group.

In October 2006, Burberry launched their UK online store.

Today, Burberry trades on the London Stock Exchange under the ticker symbol BRBY.